Antwerp and Verghel: Stinky Smells, Small Town Life, and Kangaroo Steaks

On my first Sunday in Amsterdam, I hopped on a train for Verghel which is about an hour south of Amsterdam. My good friend from high school, LeAnn, introduced me to her friend, Melissa, who graciously offered to let me stay with her during my time in The Netherlands. Initially, I didn’t realize that she was outside of Amsterdam but after several days in “Adam”, I was looking forward to visiting small town life in The Netherlands. The train ride was easy enough to navigate and I was excited to meet Melissa. She and her boyfriend picked me up and we immediately bonded. She has such a kind, beautiful heart and was very obviously concerned about my well-being and comfort. We began driving to Verghel and along our drive she asked me if I would be visiting Belgium on my trip. I indicated that I would not and she offered to take me there for dinner. Growing up in the southwest of the USA, I was shocked to think that one could just drive for an hour and get to another country. Obviously, I was excited and confirmed that it would be a great experience.

We traveled to Antwerp and parked at the centrum. I hesitate to say this but I have to admit that my first thought of Antwerp was “What is that smell?!?” There was a horribly stinky fragrance that hung over the city center and it nearly knocked me off my feet. We visited the statue of the man throwing a hand in the river and then stopped to have dinner. I had a delicious toasty which is basically a grilled ham and cheese sandwich and then I had Belgian Waffles with whipped cream and strawberries for dessert. Melissa insisted on paying as she believes that none of her visitors pay for their first waffles or chocolates. Obviously, I was thrilled to no end. We left the restaurant and stopped by Deskalaides for chocolates. She bought me a dozen chocolates and I was literally a kid in a candy store. The warm smell was so intoxicating and I felt like I was wrapped in an envelope of sugary sweetness. Later, we visited The Cathedral of Our Lady at the Antwerp Centrum. It was beautiful and despite my atheistic leanings, I felt very comforted by the fact that I attended a mass albeit briefly on Easter Sunday.

We returned to Verghel, where Melissa lives, and settled in for the evening. Her boyfriend prepared some Polish food for us – he’s from Warsaw – and we relaxed in her apartment. The next day, Melissa went to work and I ventured out to explore Verghel. It’s an extremely quaint and quiet city and because I was there on “2nd Easter” most everything was closed. I ate at a small cafe, had some wine, read some Coelho, and decided to walk around in the sunny, wintery day. There is an amazing trail that cuts through the city with small animal farms along it and a small river. I got to stop and chat with some donkeys and I was thrilled to no end. I sent some texts to a friend in Amsterdam and had a wonderful time checking out the sites. There were few people on the streets but I was having so much fun window shopping and being in a new place. Sometimes, the quiet scares me but this time, I found it very soothing. At this moment in my life, I found solace in the stillness. I was in a new place, away from home, processing the last several months of my life, and I found the solitude to be very receptive to my mood and feelings.

That night, I received a text from a friend inviting me to come back to Amsterdam early and hang out. I told Melissa that night and she was so cool about it. She told me that she understood and that I should do what I want because I am on holiday and she wants me to have fun. We decided that the next night would be about me having kangaroo for dinner. She really is quite cool. That same afternoon, I met her housekeeper who is such a kind, loving person and who offered to connect me with her son to hang out. He and I connected immediately on WhatsApp and agreed to meet the next day for a drink. They are from Turkey and I wanted to chat with someone about my possible visit to there.

The next day, I slept in very late and got up to shop. I bought some post cards and some thank you cards. I walked around some more and then met Melissa. We stopped by an Australian BBQ for some Kangaroo steaks. Melissa loves it. I found it to be too gamey for me. I can say now that I have eaten Kangaroo although I felt like I had to chew for a century before I could swallow. I will be the first to admit that I have the very least refined palate in the world. I was grateful but also reminded of how much I need to learn about food. Melissa took me on a tour to see some real windmills and we had a nice drive through the countryside. Later, that evening, I had drinks in the freezing cold of Verghel with Redic and talked about Turkey, life as an immigrant, and our dreams for our futures. I’m not even gonna front; boy is HOT. He doesn’t bat for my team but I will admit that I wondered how he swings.

The next day, Melissa dropped me off at the station and I headed back to my beloved Amsterdam. I want to say this now: She was the second of many gracious and amazing people I have met in Europe. She opened her home to me, gave me some incredibly useful advice, and made sure at every single moment that I felt secure in my decision to embark on this journey. She was a piece of home away from home and reminded me of how proud I am to be not only an American but one who has the courage to embrace travel when one is privileged enough to do so. My hat is off to you, Melissa and LeAnn. You are beautiful women who I will count amongst my friends for the rest of my life. I boarded my train, headed for Amsterdam, and felt a warmth in my heart that has carried me through my journey in Europe to this day. I was sad to leave Melissa so quickly but excited to see my new friend in Amsterdam again.

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